P.E.A.C.H.—Hydrators

 Protection kept the damage out, Exfoliation cleared the runway, Additives delivered rebuilding instructions, and Cleansers set the stage. Now comes the daily finish—Hydrators—whose job is to keep precious water inside the stratum corneum so every other step can perform at full strength. Think of them as the irrigation system of your P.E.A.C.H. garden: invisible when they’re working well, yet indispensable. 

Every effective moisturiser blends three kinds of ingredients that work in concert—humectants, emollients and occlusives.

• Humectants are water magnets. They draw moisture from the deeper skin layers (and, if the air is humid enough, the atmosphere) into the surface. Hyaluronic acid, glycerol, urea and panthenol are the classic examples. Apply them to slightly damp skin and they swell the upper layers, giving an instant look of plumpness.
• Emollients are the “gap-fillers.” Lightweight lipids—squalane, triglycerides, shea butter—slide between dry, curled-up surface cells and smooth rough edges so light reflects evenly.
• Occlusives are the lid on the pot. Ingredients such as petrolatum, silicones or natural waxes form a thin, semi-occlusive film that slows transepidermal water loss by up to 98 percent in minutes. They don’t add water; they lock in what humectants have attracted and what emollients have organised.

Dermatology reviews published in Skin Pharmacology & Physiology (2024) show that a formula combining all three strategies consistently outperforms any single category for both immediate hydration and true barrier repair over time.

Hyaluronic acid (HA) can bind roughly a thousand times its weight in water, but molecular size dictates how it behaves. High-molecular-weight HA hovers on the surface, forming a breathable film that softens the look of fine lines within minutes. Low-molecular-weight HA slips between corneocytes, nudging filaggrin production and improving elasticity from the inside out. An 11-month randomised trial comparing the two found the low-molecular-weight version produced a one-third jump in measurable hydration and doubled dermal springiness compared with its heavier cousin—without extra irritation. 

• Glycerol (a.k.a. glycerine) inserts itself between surface cells and holds a microscopic pool of water right where you need it. In a split-arm study, a cream containing 20 percent glycerol and 2 percent urea halved water loss and noticeably reduced irritation after only four weeks. Urea at 10 percent goes a step further: it up-regulates aquaporin-3, the skin’s own water channel, so hydration improves even after you’ve washed the product away. 

• Human skin lipids are roughly 50 percent ceramides by weight, yet the body produces fewer of them after the mid-forties. Topical, skin-identical ceramides slot neatly back into the “mortar” between corneocyte “bricks,” restoring flexibility. Niacinamide boosts the enzymes that make those ceramides in the first place, while panthenol (vitamin B5) calms irritation and accelerates recovery after retinoids or acids. In a 28-day facial study, a ceramide-plus-niacinamide lotion cut water loss by a quarter and visibly brightened skin tone. 

 Petrolatum remains the unrivalled champion of water-loss prevention, which explains the viral trend of “slugging” (a whisper-thin layer over night-time skincare). Used once or twice a week on dry or compromised skin, a petrolatum seal can speed barrier repair without clogging pores—provided it’s the final, thinnest coat in your routine. 

• For those who want deeper, longer-lasting hydration, micro-droplet injections of a very soft, non-volumising HA gel—often called skin boosters—are placed into the superficial dermis. Randomised clinical trials show a sustained increase in cheek hydration and smoothness that can last up to six months after a single session. Brand names and prescription specifics stay behind clinic doors, but it’s worth knowing that hydration can be built from within as well as layered on top. 

1. Start with humectants. Pat them onto slightly damp skin so there’s water to bind.
2. Follow with an emollient-rich cream. Think of it as grouting the tiles so the surface feels silky.
3. Seal with occlusion when needed. A light balm on drier nights or after in-clinic treatments locks everything down.
4. Adjust to climate. In humid summers a HA-rich gel may suffice; in winter or air-conditioned offices, reach for richer textures or a night-time occlusive layer.
5. Keep P.E.A.C.H. in mind. Hydrate after actives in the evening and before sunscreen in the morning. Damp, well-watered skin lets antioxidants, peptides and retinoids work at full potency.

1. People new to cosmeceuticals often believe skincare begins and ends with cleansing and moisturising. P.E.A.C.H. deliberately puts Hydrators last to show that a well-watered garden still needs shade (Protection), pruning (Exfoliation), fertiliser (Additives) and mindful tending (Cleansers). Hydrators don’t replace these steps—but they make their results look dewy, comfortable and enduring. 

• Akdeniz M et al. “Mechanisms of modern moisturisers.” Skin Pharmacol Physiol, 2024.
• Schmid-Wendtner K & Kerscher M. “Low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid in dermatology.” EMJ Dermatol,2024.
• Leben V et al. “Effectiveness of topical HA of different molecular weights.” Arch Dermatol Res, 2024.
• Anggraini D I et al. “Glycerol-urea cream and barrier improvement.” Clin Exp Dermatol, 2023.
• Marinović B R et al. “Ceramide/niacinamide lotion restores facial barrier.” J Cosmet Dermatol, 2025.
• Bonté F. “Petrolatum: occlusion and barrier biology.” J Dermatol Sci, 2024.
• Hausauer A K et al. “Micro-droplet HA injections enhance dermal hydration.” Dermatol Surg, 2023.

Lock in water wisely, and watch youthful suppleness resurface—completing the P.E.A.C.H. cycle that keeps skin flourishing year-round.