P.E.A.C.H.—Active Additives

P.E.A.C.H. Additives/Actives for skin repair and renewal

Additives: science-focused actives that keep skin looking young

With Protection in place and regular Exfoliation opening clear channels, it’s time for the fun part: actives (we call them Additives). These molecules don’t just sit on top of the skin—they deliver precise biochemical instructions that nudge cells to make more collagen, dial down pigment, or rebuild the barrier. Below is a 2025 snapshot of the most evidence-backed, non-prescription anti-ageing ingredients you can safely discuss on an Australian public website.

1. Retinoid family — retinol & retinal, plus plant-powered bakuchiol

Encapsulated retinol 0.1 %: an integrated analysis of six vehicle-controlled trials (n = 237) showed significant wrinkle and pigment improvement as early as week 4, with excellent tolerability thanks to slow-release microspheres jddonline.com.
Retinaldehyde (retinal) converts one step faster than retinol, giving faster visible change with less irritation—ideal for drier skins.
Bakuchiol 0.5 %: in a 12-week double-blind split-face study it matched 0.5 % retinol for wrinkle-softening and pigment-evening, but triggered markedly less scaling and stinging Oxford Academic.
How to use: start retinol/retinal two nights a week, graduate upward as redness calms; bakuchiol tolerates morning or evening use and plays well under sunscreen.

2. Antioxidant powerhouse — vitamin C

L-ascorbic acid is both a co-factor for pro-collagen enzymes and a formidable free-radical quencher. A 2024 systematic review of 32 clinical studies ranked vitamin C alongside retinol as a Grade A cosmeceutical for visible anti-ageing, citing consistent gains in dermal density and brightness after 8-12 weeks SpringerLink. Stabilised derivatives such as 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid and tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid extend shelf-life while delivering similar collagen perks.

3. Barrier boosters — niacinamide, ceramides & vitamin B5

Niacinamide 5 %: a 2025 randomised-controlled serum study showed 15-20 % improvements in fine lines and firmness by week 12, attributed to boosted ceramide synthase and antioxidant gene expression MDPI.
Human-identical ceramides (HC123) enhanced fibrillin-1 and collagen XVII in ex-vivo skin and reduced wrinkle volume after eight weeks in vivo Oxford Academic.
Panthenol (vitamin B5) is converted in-skin to pantothenic acid, bolstering lipid synthesis and calming irritation; two intra-individual RCTs confirmed significant TEWL reduction and faster barrier recovery within four weeks Academia.
Layer these after water-light serums and before your moisturiser to lock moisture in and irritants out.

4. Peptide signals — palmitoyl-pentapeptide-4 & GHK-Cu

Palmitoyl-pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl) mimics a collagen fragment; a double-blind 12-week study in 93 women documented measurable smoothing of fine lines and overall skin quality versus placebo MDPI.
GHK-Cu tripeptide shuttles copper ions that up-regulate collagen and elastin genes; an eight-week nano-carrier trial reported a 32 % wrinkle-depth drop and 56 % wrinkle-volume reduction over vehicle control cosmeticformulators.com.
Peptides are irritation-free allies for nights off retinoids or for patients who simply can’t tolerate vitamin A.

5. Cutting-edge helpers — growth-factor exosomes & DNA-repair enzymes

Topical exosomes derived from fibroblasts carry micro-RNAs that stimulate collagen and quell UV inflammation; a 2024 literature review summarised early trials showing pore refinement and tone evening within four weeks Wiley Online Library.
Liposomal photolyase—a light-activated DNA-repair enzyme—snips UV-induced cyclobutane dimers; small case series note smoother texture and less actinic erythema after three months of nightly use jidonline.org.
While still niche, these actives hint at the next frontier where skincare meets regenerative medicine.

6. Building a sensible additive routine

Introduce gradually: one new active every fortnight lets skin adapt.
Day vs night: antioxidants, niacinamide and peptides shine in the morning; retinol/retinal and photolyase prefer lights-out.
Layer light to rich: water serums ➜ emulsions ➜ ceramide-panthenol creams ➜ occlusive if needed.
Mind the synergy: pause chemical exfoliants 48 h after in-clinic peels and on evenings you up-dose retinoids.
Always cover with sunscreen: fresh collagen is UV-shy; your Protection habits remain non-negotiable.

7. How additives dovetail with P.E.A.C.H.

Additives are the construction crew—they lay new bricks and reinforce old beams. But they can only do their best work if:

Protection keeps demolition (UV, pollution) at bay.
Exfoliation clears the site for even ingredient penetration.
Upcoming essays on Cleansers will show you how to prep the canvas, and Hydration will seal in all this new goodness.

For other concerns—acne, rosacea, precancerous lesions—bespoke actives and often prescription-only agents exist; our clinicians can advise privately. On the public stage, these non-prescription stars give everyone a legal, accessible way to age on their own terms.