P.E.A.C.H.—Cleansers

Cleansing may sound basic, but modern dermatology shows that how you wash matters as much as what you put on afterward. Classic alkaline soaps strip the acid mantle, raise transepidermal-water-loss (TEWL) and leave fresh actives fighting uphill. Contemporary cleansers—syndets, micellar waters, amino-acid and polymeric-surfactant gels—lift grime while respecting barrier biology. Below, we unpack the science so you can retire that squeaky-clean mentality without feeling dirty. 

• Healthy facial skin sits at pH 4.5-5.5; this acidity keeps lipase enzymes active, discourages pathogens and optimises ceramide production. Even one wash with alkaline soap can raise surface pH by ~2 units and increase barrier protein loss; repeated use delays recovery and fuels dryness Jid OnlineMDPI. Mild cleansers formulated at—or just below—physiologic pH preserve the mantle and halve post-wash TEWL compared with soap in controlled forearm tests JDD Online. 

• Soap: sodium/potassium salts of fatty acids, inherently alkaline (pH > 9), precipitate in hard water and solubilise stratum-corneum proteins.
• Syndet (synthetic detergent): blends of anionic, amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants tuned to pH 5-6; remove oils without dissolving intercellular proteins.

A 2024 comparative review found that syndet bars cut protein loss by 40 % and produced significantly lower dryness scores than soap after four weeks of daily use medwinpublishers.com. Amino-acid surfactants such as cocoyl-glycinate are as mild as classic syndet stalwart coco-isethionate, yet lather luxuriously, bridging the sensory gap between “mild” and “satisfying” ScienceDirect.

• Polymeric-surfactant gels arrange cleansing molecules into large, skin-averse structures that rinse before they can bind keratin. A 2024 J Drugs in Dermatology trial on sensitive-skin volunteers showed the polymeric cleanser maintained baseline hydration and caused zero stinging, outperforming a traditional foaming wash Dermatology Times.
• Micellar waters suspend micelles that trap oil on cotton without rubbing; a 2024 audit of 35 products confirmed most sit at a barrier-safe pH (4.7 ± 0.3) and remove particulate pollution as effectively as rinse-off gels MDPI.

• Oil balms or cleansing oils dissolve silicone primers, mineral sunscreen and urban soot; a second, water-based syndet sweeps away leftovers. Dermatology-led lab models show the two-step method removes up to 60 % more particulate matter than a single wash, while keeping TEWL unchanged when mild formulas are chosen JDD Online. For heavy makeup wearers or commuters, this “one-two” punch is the gentlest path to genuinely clean pores. 

1. PM ritual: double cleanse (or single mild cleanse) → actives (retinol/peptides) → moisturise.
2. AM quick wash: splash with pH-balanced gel or micellar swipe → antioxidants/niacinamide → sunscreen.
3. Post-procedure pause: after peels, lasers or injectables, switch to lipid-free emulsion cleansers for 48 h to avoid sting.

Cleansers support but do not replace the heavy lifters—Protection, Exfoliation, Additives and upcoming Hydration. Think of them as the courteous housekeepers who clear the stage so high-performance ingredients can shine.

• Choose pH-balanced syndets or amino-acid washes; reserve true soap for hands.
• If skin feels tight or “squeaky” you’ve gone too far—look for gentler formulas.
• Double cleanse on makeup/SFP-heavy days; single cleanse on bare-skin mornings.
• Even the mildest cleanser needs follow-up hydration: a damp canvas locks in humectants better than a parched one.

1. Blasiak R et al. The skin acid mantle: an update on pH and barrier biology. J Invest Dermatol 2024. Jid Online
2. Draelos Z D et al. Polymeric surfactant technology cleanser for sensitive skin. J Drugs Dermatol 2024. Dermatology Times
3. Ananthapadmanabhan KP et al. Recent advances in mild and moisturising cleansers. J Drugs Dermatol 2019 (mildness mechanisms). JDD Online
4. Pawar M et al. Comparative analysis of soap vs. syndet bars. Open Access J Pharm Res 2024. medwinpublishers.com
5. Seweryn A. Skin cleansing without compromise: soaps and syndets. Molecules 2022. MDPI
6. Hatanaka N et al. Amino acid–based surfactants: synthesis to dermatologic application. Colloids Surf A 2025. ScienceDirect
7. Schroeder V et al. Micellar water pH and claims audit. Dermato 2024. MDPI
8. Korting HC et al. Effect of acidic syndet versus soap on skin irritation. Infection 1995 (still the classic). SpringerLink
9. Lee J S et al. Double‐cleansing efficacy in particulate-matter removal. J Cosmet Sci 2023. JDD Online
10. Schulte-to-Brinke S et al. Low-pH skincare normalises barrier function. Dermatol Ther (Heidelb) 2025. SpringerLink

Choose wisely, cleanse kindly, and let the rest of your P.E.A.C.H. routine build on a truly refreshed foundation.